H&M Nails New Camel for Spring

In the wake of the beige (sorry, neutral) phenomenon of Autumn/Winter 2010, my wardrobe resembled a Farrow & Ball colour chart. I could have carpeted a desert with clothes in tones of twine, mocha, nude, string, biscuit and sand; however, I had no clue how to work them into my Spring/Summer wardrobe. 

But just as I was beginning to rue the day Phoebe Philo ever picked up a pen, I noticed that some designers have revamped their camel for spring, taking inspiration, ironically, from watery hues. Peter Pilotto chose a rich Wedgewood blue to update the pale shortbread shades we saw last season, while at Fendi and Diane von Furstenburg, zingy aqua highlights were combined with stronger tones of corn and chocolate. Neutral knitwear, as seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim, suddenly felt fresh when combined with bluebell leather and chiffon in shades of sky. 

But all this blue was giving me the blues. I was so certain that these delicate tones weren't going to trickle down onto the high street, given how the trends for brights, prints and jaw-dropping neon have been so prolific, and that I would be left with a dusty heap of clothes in shades of dust. That was until a multicoloured, multi-fabric, multitasking cardigan winged its way to the fashion cupboard at The Sunday Times Style magazine. 

 

True to its quick-fix fashion ethos, H&M solved the camel conundrum by whipping up a wearable basic that takes inspiration from the ready-to-wear collections. A staple cardigan in a bold peanut shade, this knitwear gem has a completely sheer back in a colour reminiscent of aqua sherbet flying saucers. With its long, straight sleeves, boxy cut and square pockets, the front of the cardigan is far from feminine. But do a twirl and voilà. Ladylike charm abounds. The drop-pocket detail heightens the modern, serious design feel while the candy floss shade at the rear keeps the garment firmly within the spring colour palette. I particularly love the black buttons, which add another unexpected element to the design. While H&M's color combo was spot-on, most brands seem to have avoided combining neutral shades with black for fear of seeming monochrome and boring. Clearly, they haven't considered throwing in a whoosh of aqua to mix things up. 


It seems that H&M has managed to create both an on-trend piece and a wardrobe classic all in one skimpy little cardigan. And it only retails for £24.99. So, as a clothes magpie, surely it's difficult to criticise the fast fashion producers? My jury is still out. 

--Charlie Byrne

Beijing's Answer to the Dover Street Market

The I.T. Beijing Market

Last spring, when I passed by Sanlitun Village, a new shopping area in East Beijing, I saw that a lot of big-name designers, like Balmain, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Bape and Comme des Garçons, were building stores. This Christmas, when I went back to Beijing for holiday, Balenciaga had opened, its racks fully stocked with the A/W10 collection. Next to the new boutique stood a 4-floor-store called “I.T. Beijing Market.” Looking at the familiar logo of the store, I wondered if it was related to London's Dover Street Market.

The I.T. Beijing Market celebrated its grand opening on December 23rd. Many of the opening party’s guests wanted to call it “The Beijing Dover Street Market.” According to one of the store's employees, I.T. Beijing Market is based on the long-term relationship between Rei Kawakubo and Hong Kong retailer, I.T. Just like Dover Street Market, the I.T. store works with Rei Kawakubo to stock Comme des Garçons and many other edgy brands. The two markets share the same concept, which is to offer a platform for communication between fashion designs from around the world. I.T. Beijing Market will bring in foreign fashion designers’ work and introduce it to China.

Rei Kawakubo at I.T. Beijing Market's opening party. Images courtesy of Vogue.com

I am surprised by how fast the Chinese fashion industry is growing. Five years ago, the luxury brands were limited to just a handful of mysterious stores hiding in very expensive hotels and a high-end  building called “The China World Trade Center”. Now, you can see luxury stores in all of China's major shopping areas. Two years ago, Comme des Garçons was a name known only by young people who were interested in Japanese street or pop culture. Now, the brand has a four-floor store in Beijing’s most important fashion center. Furthermore, three years ago, the Chinese design aesthetic consisted of boring Qipao collars and traditional prints (just like the Louis Vuitton SS11, which is clearly inspired by Chinese costumes but not welcomed by the Chinese people). Today, with more and more young Chinese designers attending Central Saint Martins and, after graduating, returning to China, the Chinese aesthetic is becoming increasingly modern, combining world trends with more traditional Chinese designs. 

So, to all the fashionistas out there, welcome to China! I hope you feel at home. --Yoanna Liu

A Glimpse at I.T. Beijing's Brand List:

Alaia, Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, Commuun, Dior Homme, Gareth Pugh, Hussein Chalayan, Kitsune, Maison Martin Margiela, MM6, Peachoo+Krejberg, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Thom Browne, Undercover, Visvim, Yves Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons, Celine, Chloé, Givenchy, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs

Bon Week-End, Paris!

 

My favorite thing about Paris is the beauty found in every detail. A weekend trip allotted the perfect amount of time to explore the city and discover the intricacies that give Paris its reputation for beauty and luxury. In a city that can either make or break you, it’s easy to get caught up in the glamour and rich culture. We must not forget the everyday importance of noticing the little things that keep the city aesthetically incredible. --Mariel Reed

 

Images by Mariel Reed

Coming Attractions

From left to right: A look from Prada's FW11 menswear collection; A look from Missoni's FW11 menswear collection. Images courtesy of Style.com

And they’re off! The men's FW11 shows have officially begun in Milan and will soon move on to Paris. With a schedule that's shorter and tighter than that of the women’s collections, the wait for the most anticipated shows is nonexistent; thus, we’ve already seen what powerhouses like Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana and Missoni will offer next fall. Now, there is no crystal ball for fashion but the menswear shows can give us a sneak-peek at what's in store for the girls. Time and history have proven that trends shown in January are often a prelude to what we’ll see in the women’s shows that take place in February and March. This is especially true with designers like Miuccia Prada or Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey. Remember the double-breasted jackets and slim trousers constructed of sleek matte grey nylon from Prada’s men's SS10? A few weeks later, that same slate color and fabrication appeared in the women's show, except this time, it was duchess satin and appeared on jackets, vests and Bermuda shorts. Or how about that biker shearling from Burberry Prorsum's FW10 collection? It too was first seen strutting down the menswear runway. 

The menswear looks from Burberry Prorsum's FW10 collection translated seamlessly into the women's fall styles. Images courtesy of Style.com

So what could this fall/winter season have in store for women? Maybe we’ll see mega lumberjack plaids from Bailey. Or perhaps we’ll get rich autumnal tones like burnt orange and rust, or evening wear in iridescent greens and silvers with inverted triangles and oversized proportions from Prada. Will there be less color and more solid greys, browns and khakis at Missoni? Deep juicy tones and tailored silhouettes at Bottega Veneta? Menswear trends may not change as frequently as women’s styles but they sure can be great indicators of what's to come. I guess we'll have to wait until February to see. Keep your eyes on the boys and place your bets accurately and you could be the next soothsayer of fashion. 
--Lindsey Botts

HELLO WORLD

Finally, I'm born.